Thursday, 29 June 2017

Simple Steps To Help Introduce Acitives Into Your Skincare Routine

Hello Princesses!
Today I'm going to be talking about some simple steps to help introduce actives to your skincare routine! Actives are really helpful in targeting specific skincare problems, but they can be a little intimidating to introduce! If you already use actives in your skincare then this blog post will not be very helpful for you.
Start Using Sunscreen On A Daily Basis
Before you start using actives in your routine you should ideally have a good habit of applying sunscreen on a daily basis. Actives increase the risk of sun damage, even if you apply them at night! Any type of exfoliation whether it be chemical or physical removes layers of dead skin which increases your sun sensitivity, and since a lot of people use actives to help with the signs of ageing, skipping sunscreen is quite counterproductive. AHA's can increase the risk of sun damage for up to a week after one application, so using sunscreen really is a priority. Regular sunscreen use can be difficult to those who are Vitamin D Deficient and if you're worried about it do ask a Doctor or Dermatologist. In New Zealand there generally isn't too much to worry about unless you have problems absorbing Vit D or if you live at the bottom of the South Island. However, I'm not an expert on other countries Vitamin D levels.

Make Sure Your Moisture Barrier Is In Good Condition
Your Moisture Barrier or Lipid Barrier is responsible for keeping moisture in your skin and bad bacteria out. It's quite important to keep your moisture barrier happy if you're going to include actives. A moisture barrier that has been stripped will become very sensitive, slower to heal and more prone to breakouts, and adding actives to this can make your skin even more sensitive and acne prone! So making sure your skin is in good condition is really important too.

Choose The Right Actives
This is the hard part! Think about what you want to achieve and what type of product is going to help you achieve that. An AHA works on the top layer of your skin, whereas a BHA works past the skins surface. If you are wanting help with acne, blackheads, clogged pores or enlarged pores you should  choose a BHA. If you're wanting help with firmness, wrinkles and smoother skin you should choose an AHA. If you're need help with signs of ageing, then retinols are a good choice. Retinols are a little more complicated and not something I would recommend for complete beginners. The most common BHA is Salycilic Acid, but there are a few AHA's to choose from!

    Glycolic Acid. The most common of all the AHAs, this acid has the smallest molecular structure, which allows it to be the most effectual on the skin but also the most potentially irritating. Has a mild humectant property.

    Lactic Acid. The second most common of all the AHAs. The molecular structure is larger than AHA but not as large as mandelic acid. It is highly recommended for sensitive skin types, such as rosacean skin. Lactic acid is also milk derived. It has great humectant properties.

    Mandelic Acid. The least common, but one of the best choice for acne-prone skin. It has a large molecular structure, meaning it takes longer to work its magic on skin and is less irritating. It is also anti-bacterial/anti-microbial. It is derived from bitter almonds. Mandelic also has moderate humectant properties.

Layering Actives
The general rule is that the lower PH product is applied first, unless the lower PH product is in a non-polar solvent like oil which will block the penetration of the next product. If you are a beginner I recommend just using one at a time or alternating mornings and evenings. You can also prep your skin by using a PH adjusting toner to lower the PH level of your skin for more effective exfoliation. Some people are super into this step, and some people are not, so experimenting with what works best for your skin is important here too.

Introduce One At A Time, and Slowly!
Starting two different products at the same time is a recipe for disaster, because if something goes wrong, how will you know which product is helping your skin and which isn't. Start one product slowly so that you don't over exfoliate your skin, and then once you know your skins tolerance you can work your way up to more regular use.

That is it for some simple steps to help introduce actives into your routine, this is a super simple beginners guide, so if you already have actives in your routine then it won't be helpful really. At the end of the day, everyone's skin is different, so it takes some experimenting to find the perfect products that work best for you!

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1 comment:

  1. Thanks for the detailed info/advice! I've started researching and using some Korean skincare products over the past few months as I've always heard good things about them. I still have so much to learn about skincare ingredients x


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